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Fixing a Cracked Cymbal

There are several methods to fix a cymbal that is cracked. All these methods are useful, they depend on how wide the crack is and where it is located on the cymbal.

1- Force Epoxy into the crack. Strike the cymbal hard several times to vibrate glue deeper into the crack. Apply more Epoxy and strike several times again. Wipe away excess. Bake the cymbal in a 200 degree oven for about an hour. This hardens the Epoxy to a glassy consistency. Let the cymbal cool naturally. Let stand for at least 24 hrs before playing.

2- Drill a small hole at each end of the crack to prevent further spread, and then widen the crack. If the crack starts from the edge, drill the other end and then make a wide, V-shaped notch starting from the hole.

3- If the crack is on the outer edge and it’s not too deep (towards the center), you can cut the cymbal smaller in the diameter.

All these methods will change the sound characteristics of the cymbal. You may get totally new, exciting, nice sounding special effects out of it.

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Spacing Hi-hats

February 3rd, 2010

   by admin

When you situate yourself comfortably behind the kit, place right foot on the bass pedal to guage. Place your left foot on the hi-hat pedal and, when, comfortable, push down on the pedal to where your foot feels good and then tighten the clutch. I suppose it would be anywhere from 1/4″ to 1/2″.

Hi-hat spacing also depends how tight the clutch on your hi-hat cymbal is adjusted. By that, I mean, let the top hat cymbal wobble loosely or keep it fairly tight.  Another good idea is to have the bottom hat slightly tilted so its touching when half way closed.

The bottom line is, as you progress you’ll figure out what works for you and what doesn’t. There is not one fits all scenario here. It really is a matter of personal preference. What works for you may not work another. Play around, not only with your cymbals but your whole drum set, until you get what works for you.

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Hi-hat Airlock

February 3rd, 2010

   by admin

Airlock happens with hi-hat cymbals when they don’t come together and make a clean, loud “chick” sound, but instead more of a muted, “airy” sound. This usually happens when both cymbals are paralell to each other, that’s why every hi-hat stand allows you to tilt the bottom cymbal, to eliminate this.

Some hi-hat cymbal sets have air holes in the bottom cymbal like quickbeats, its lets air escape rather than airlock, so that they don’t have to be tilted.

Some drummers use the benefits of the airlock concept, they can use it to somewhat adjust the volume of the chick. If it’s too loud, you can bring the bottom cymbal closer to flat, and if it’s too quiet, you can make it louder.

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Sizzle Cymbals

February 2nd, 2010

   by admin

In almost every genre sizzle cymbals are used but they find more intense use in jazz. Sizzle cymbals are generally ride cymbals that rivets, chains or other rattles have been added to modify the sound with a sustaining silvery ring. Beside rides china cymbals, less commonly bottom hi-hats, crash and effect cymbals are also used for sizzle.

The effects created by rattles are louder, penetrating sizzling cymbal wash sounds. There is a natural balance how many rivets can be used on a cymbal. Too many or too heavy rattles can cause a negative unnatural effect by losing sustain and dynamic range of the cymbal. Usually evenly spaced minimum three rivets follow a close arc cluster parallel to the cymbal edge.

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Cymbals for Sizzle

February 2nd, 2010

   by admin

The rule of thumb is if a cymbal doesn’t sound good without rivets it won’t with rivets either. A thin crash cymbal is not a bad way to go … even a medium. A thinner cymbal would make a better sizzler…more wobble. But very thin wobbly cymbals can also lose stick attack presence with rivets. Sometimes it’s nice to get the focused burst of white noise without the sustain on a thinner sizzle pie, but the rivets can definitely suppress or choke a cymbal.

If you are using it as an effects cymbal instead of a ride, even a heavier cymbal without much visible wobble will still excite the rivets, because what you are getting is a lot of sustain (depending on your rivet choice; i.e., faster decay with split copper rivets vs. regular steel or brass rivets).

The benefit of rivets really depends on more the other sonic attributes of the cymbal than upon any generalized formula. It is more a matter of trial and error, if you prefer doing it yourself.

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Matching Cymbals

February 2nd, 2010

   by admin

Ride, crash or hats should be sonically matching in a whole variety of different combinations together and applications in different musical settings. All should share the same general good qualities with each having it’s own unique voice to add to any musical mix depending on the situation and sounds.

All the cymbals in a set up should not necessarily have similar timbres, pitches, colors, etc. Most professional drummers prefer a wider variety cymbal sounds within a set. The cymbals still have to compliment each other but a skilled drummer can still get a cohesive sound out of the set. In the right hands, a set of cymbals with a wider variety of sounds yields many more sounds, timbres and colors.

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